First, let's talk about Linva. Linva is a tailor shop that specializes in 旗袍 or qi pao, also known as cheongsam in Cantonese. I'm just going to refer to it as qi pao because I speak Mandarin much better than Cantonese.
Linva was responsible for those gorgeous qi pao that Maggie Cheung wore in In the Mood for Love. They cut it in a very ladylike way, either full-length or ending below the knee. However, it's very expensive to get qi pao tailored there, I have to admit. I brought in my own vintage fabric from the 1960s that my mother had saved and given to me, and the tailoring alone cost just under HKD3,000. So much for my dream of having a collection of qi pao to wear every day.
Linva is at 38 Cochrane Street in Central.
As you can see, Linva also does a traditional Manchurian-style top. I really should save money to have another qi pao made. And a men's cheongsam, too. I once watched a Jay Chou video where some guy had this really gorgeous white suit with red dragons embroidered on the sleeves. I'd love to have a white men's cheongsam with red dragons and phoenixes up the arms, too.
Now, Mitty. Mitty is simply the best alteration place in Hong Kong. I buy a lot of vintage clothes, and so I'm always there for alterations. Prices are reasonable and the workmanship is excellent.
However, I do have some advice for people:
1. Mitty does not make clothes. They are not a tailor, so don't waste your time trying to convince them to make something for you. It's simply rude. I've witnessed expats doing this and getting worked up and yelling at the staff. Animals.
2. Don't try to jump the fucking queue! Again, I always see expats doing this! It takes about a week to get your stuff back, and I really hate it when expats, using the most arrogant English they can muster up, start shouting about how urgent their clothes are and how they know the owner. We all fucking know the owner, so shut the fuck up! If you want your clothes finished sooner, go somewhere else!
3. The staff at Mitty are super great and honest. If you have any body insecurities or have low self-esteem, I suggest not going. They will tell you exactly why your clothes don't fit properly, and will explain to you how they can compensate for your lack of or overabundance of fats. If your feelings are easily hurt, and if you're stubborn and dumb enough to argue about what YOU think should be done, don't bother going. The best thing to do is just tell them that you'd like your piece of clothing to fit better (looser, tighter, etc.) and let them handle it. If they tell you that they can't do anything about it, then just take the loss and move on.
Mitty is at 74 Welllington Street in Central, on the 5th floor. This is what the foyer looks like. Kind of looks like a horror movie, I know.
Now, to show the combined efforts of Linva and Mitty. I'm so sorry for the crappy photograph, and pardon the mess on the table, especially the giant wad of tissues. I had allergies because I reorganized my clothes for winter. I'm just not meant for household drudgery. I need a wife.
Side slit.
Look at how wonderful the tailoring is. The two matched flowers on the collar (which I didn't bother doing up, sorry), gorgeous!
Yes, unfortunately, those are lucite heels. But in my defence, they are Gucci lucite heels. Or does that make it worse? Note the hot pink lining of the dress.
Now, for some important qi pao tips.
1. Fit: I admit that I like my clothes to be on the tight side, especially around the waist. Maybe I'm just skanky but it's also because I'm not exactly thin, so I prefer not to add excess fabric anywhere that could make me look even bigger.
However, with the qi pao, you have to remember that, unless you're having one made with a stretch fabric, which is kind of a hideously tacky idea, there is no way sifu will agree to cut it skin-tight because you won't be able to move properly. Trust me, I've asked and all I got for my presumption was a lecture on modesty.
When I got my qi pao altered at Mitty (I had it made a few years ago and lost weight since then, yay!), I tentatively suggested making everything a lot tighter, only to be tsked and asked, "Do you want to be able to sit down when you wear this dress?"
2. Frogs: Frogs are the fabric-covered clasps that will be added to your qi pao. Please, I ask you, follow sifu's advice on which frogs to use because he will know what is best for the style and colour/pattern of the dress. But as a rule of thumb, the busier the pattern on your fabric is, the simpler the frog should be. If you have a plain lace or satin qi pao, then by all means, go for a phoenix frog or something.
3. Side slit: Mid-thigh for both full-length and below-the-knee qi pao. Higher than that, the back of the skirt will be fluttering in the wind like a banner. Lower than that, you won't be able to walk.
4. At the fitting, wear the shoes (or similar height) and underwear (especially bra) that you will most likely wear whenever you put on your qi pao. This is really important. Stand with good posture while you're being measured!
5. Wearing a qi pao: look, you just have to accept that a qi pao is not the most comfortable of things. And please don't assume that Chinese culture is misogynistic because qi pao as they are now are actually a Westernization of the Manchurian traditional dress.
I don't usually wear flat shoes, anyway, but I can't imagine walking in a qi pao without some kind of heel. In a properly-tailored qi pao, you have to walk like a lady, with one foot in front of the other, rather than clomping along. Forget about bending down to pick something up. Either the skirt will hobble you or the collar will choke you. If you drop anything, just glare at the nearest guy and say, "WELL????? WHAT THE HELL ARE YOU WAITING FOR???"
With that in mind, I also suggest putting your stockings (if necessary) and shoes on before you put your qi pao on.
6. Sitting down and getting back up: My trick for sitting in a qi pao is to cross my legs before I sit down, then gracefully perching on one buttcheek. Once my buttcheek is secure, I discreetly adjust the qi pao to allow the other buttcheek to land. By the way, as you're bending to sit, don't stick your butt out because that can strain and tear the fabric.
To get back on my feet, I usually wait until someone I know is passing by and then I demurely whisper, "Yo, grab my elbow and help me up, willya?" If no one is nearby, I kind of slide out of the seat one buttcheek at a time. Once the first buttcheek is clear, I uncross my legs and stand up. This is all done with the maximum of grace and elegance, by the way.
7. Accessories and styling: I quite like a fur shrug, as you can imagine, but a qi pao just calls for some fabulous earrings and bracelets. Necklaces are pointless, unless you wear them outside the collar, and I only suggest this for qi pao with plainer fabrics.
For hair, I like big updos with a qi pao. If you have the right hair length, finger waves also look lovely. I'm not too fond of long hair hanging down while wearing a qi pao, although, I suppose that depends on the hairstyle. It's just that it can look disheveled very easily, and a qi pao is all about looking ladylike and elegant.
